Or:- Doing stupidly long challenges along the Pennine Way

By Chris Tetley, with contributions from Chris Bowen

Part 2: Summer Spine Challenger North 2023

[Note some of the 2023 photos were taken at the time of the recces]

Now at the finish of the Spine Challenger in 2022 there were rumours of there being a Challenger North the next year. Those rumours proved to be correct and sure enough a few weeks after we finished in 2022 there it was, Challenger North.

What could possibly go wrong! We now knew what we were doing, we had the kit from the (now South) Challenger. We could pay in instalments to soften the financial blow; we were wiser on how to do a race of this type, so both myself and Chris B took the plunge. Well, it sort of made sense to finish off the Pennine Way all the way to Scotland didn’t it? It was nearly half as far again so this would be a big challenge for us both. Automatic approval ensured we would get in as we had both completed the southern Challenger. So, click and we are in.

Having just completed the southern race, I had to try and get back and get some distance in my legs again. This type of race means that you lose some speed at the expense of stamina for distance. But it doesn’t matter just yet as there is plenty of time to focus on distance as there was nearly 10 months to go to the race, right?

We worked out that we would have to do some recces and that this year it would be much more complicated. Whereas for the South we used public transport to get us from B-A etc. sadly Dr Beeching had made that far more awkward for the North with railways now much less common. So, we worked out the best thing to do was have a couple of long weekends up North and select the sections we felt we needed to do. We selected Middleton to Greenhead, then Steel Rigg to Kirk Yetholm. The only bit missed was near the start (but Chris B had done that last year whilst on holiday) and the middle section of Hadrian’s Wall.

So, its now June 2023 the weather has been very dry, the sun was shining, and I presented myself for kit check on the Sunday morning. Job done, registered and then its back to the B&B, have lunch, rest and check I have everything. 4:30 it’s head over to the start, Tracker fitted and sit down on the grass in the bright sunshine for the race to start. At first, we didn’t see the dark clouds gathering but soon we lost the sun, and it got dark. It’s nearly time to start now, right on cue the rains came, almost biblical in nature. Hurriedly all the runners went into the tent and put on waterproofs. 2 minutes to go it’s out into the deluge and get ready to start behind the start line. We are off, out the field and left on the ascent up Great Shunner Fell. As we were heading up the hill there was a massive bolt of lightning …… on the next hill to us! That was it…. The only one and it was on the NEXT HILL. Phew! However, the rain kept going. Now the forecast was for heavy rain till about 2 am. Luckily that proved not to be the case. Yes, it was wet for quite a while but not as bad as the forecast had predicted. We pressed on over Gt Shunner Fell and down to Thwaite village, onwards towards Muker then past the screes towards Keld and then the ascent over Stonesdale Moor. It was getting quite dark by now but in the distance were the bright lights of the Tan Hill Inn where we were greeted by members of the SST and offered a sit down and a cup of tea (or two). Time 22.42. The fog had come in by now. Did you know how hard it is to navigate out of the pub car park? Luckily one of the SST members guided us to the path down Sleightholme Moor. They called it shiteholme moor which when we did it, I felt it was a little unfair as it wasn’t that bad, probably much worse in winter, I guess.

Next section over a few fields and moors and apart from missing a gate and getting momentarily misplaced, we made steady progress to God’s Bridge and the A66 crossing. Or rather tunnel underneath this very busy road, even at this time of the morning. Then a long section over Cotherstone Moor. It was still dark, through to a farm called Clove Lodge. Here we stopped for a cuppa as the good people here have a table with snacks and a kettle for us to use. Though I have to say using the metal gate to the barn was a little noisy for something like 02:30 in the morning. Once refreshed off again into the night, but soon the first glimmers of daylight were showing. We were now passing across Baldersdale, it’s reservoirs then over the top of Mickleton Moor and we enter Lunedale past more reservoirs. The day gets brighter as we begin to ascend Harter Fell, over and soon we are descending again to a dawn chorus as we head down towards Middleton in Teesdale. The checkpoint in Summer Spine is at Low Way Farm, which is outside Middleton, so we now follow the River Tees for a while to the checkpoint arriving at 06:24

So the plan here is to have a short rest and some food. It might be morning, but we have been up all night so after a rest (won’t call it sleep) it was a Quorn Curry which went down very well (breakfast?). Time to press on up the Tees valley, this is a fairly easy path to go on so we make good progress. Past the waterfalls of Low Force and High Force. The Upper Tees valley is without doubt one of the most beautiful parts of England. The remoteness and the scenery here is stunning. The weather now was getting quite hot as we got further up the valley. The path has sections with large boulders which you must scramble over so progress becomes very slow. Here, Chris spotted what looked like some Peregrines presumably nesting in the high cliffs. Soon you turn a corner and then in front of you is Cauldron Snout. This is an impressive waterfall maybe not as high profile of High Force, probably due to it’s accessibility. Here the path again becomes a scramble as you very quickly climb right at the side of the waterfall. Once up at the top you are on a track along the side of Dufton fell, the River Tees has now headed north at this point to its source high up on Cross Fell. We head to a very remote Birkdale farm. Here the safety team had set up an emergency satellite hot spot where you could, if need be, communicate with the world around you, such is the remoteness of this area that no mobile signal exists here. Now you turn back on to moorland to head towards High Cup Nick.

The view that is High Cup Nick is really one of the most spectacular in the country. From here it’s a steady if rocky decent down to Dufton. We pressed on to get to the café in time so we could get something to eat before it closed. Luckily, they had stayed open a little longer to wait for us arriving at about 4pm. Here we caught up with Dean and Stefanie who had been just in front of us for most of the way, they still were as they left earlier than we did. Ok at this point we were getting tired, me particularly, so it was thought that we could rest on the village green for an hour before heading up Cross Fell. Best laid plans as they say, a “local” with a camera decided to chat with us for what seemed like ages. You know when someone does that, you do not get the required rest if any and basically gave up on the rest. We thought it best to leave whilst he was chatting with the SST guys. So after the failed rest period, it was time to start to head up to Cross Fell.

I was by now beginning to get very tired, after all I had pretty much been on my feet for well over a day by now. The trail climbs steadily but with the odd steep bit up to Knock Old Man on Knock Fell. The streams that were flowing fast when we did the recces were now dry as a bone. It was a truly gorgeous evening but the slog to the top was taking its toll. So much so that I was falling asleep on my feet and had to be “guided” back on to the track up to Great Dun Fell. This time we could actually see the radar “Golf Balls” as during our recce they were shrouded in mist, even though you walk straight past them. Once over there was a dip before Little Dun Fell and one more dip, which is also the head of the River Tees, just before Cross Fell itself. This is the highest point in England outside of the Lake District. It was by now beginning to get dark once again. Even if it had been a very long day we had made it over the top before it got dark. We followed the cairns to guide us off the summit then down the screes to begin the descent down to Greg’s Hut. Here we met Andy again as well as Dean and Stefanie, The Hut is officially closed at the moment as it is still being renovated but it was open, especially at this time of night. We managed a short rest before heading down the seemingly endless very stony track to Garrigill.

Did you know there are strange creatures that appear out of the dark on this track? A sort of large cat like creature with orange spots. Hmm, I am getting tired. I got more used to the hallucinations as we descend to the village. We were harrassed by a couple of birds of prey and I’m guessing we were a little close to the nest. Oh yes, that was real as we both saw them. It was now the middle of the night, and there were strange creatures seemingly now stood in the middle of the road in the village. By now I was getting used to the hallucinations, and learned to sort of shake my head and focus on what was real. The strange people in the middle of the road turned out to be wheelie bins. With only a few miles now to Alston we pressed on. Though the endless stiles which made it seem like it was much further. We created a bit of a kerfuffle as we passed some kennels setting its residents barking loudly, the owner leaning out of the window shouting at his inmates. What seemed like an eternity of stiles finally came to an end as we arrived at Alston checkpoint at 02:12.

Now for some proper sleep. A quick cuppa and a decision to sleep first. Here we caught up again with another of our fellow runners Andy. Then I had a decent sleep and felt much better for it. Once awake and a shower it was of course this time Lasagne for breakfast (just one portion due to time constraints). Andy, Dean and Stefanie were now all here. Andy set off ahead of us and the others went for a rest.

Feeling much better after some sleep we set off following the South Tyne valley northwards across several fields to Slaggyford. Here just after the Pennine way turns off there is the railway buffet car and it was open, so we were able to have a cuppa before continuing. Actually, it was a cuppa and two slices of cake each. The calories were obviously needed! The next section consisted of many fields and the grouse moors of Hartleyburn Common. Compared to a few weeks ago these were much drier now than they were back then. On to Blenkinsopp Common, which is renowned for its bogs, once again with the dry weather these had dried out nicely. Coming off there, we encountered a large group of cows, gave them a wide berth especially the one with a ring in its nose. Crossing the A69, this time dodging traffic we arrived at another tuck stop with cake and a water top up point, soon after beginning the climb up along Hadrian’s Wall. Once at the top another SST monitoring point is at Greenhead car park where we stopped for a brew at around 16:15 (Tuesday…. I think!). Andy had arrived here too so we all sat for a while.

Now it’s the switch-back of Hadrian Wall, hate to think what the Roman Legions thought about marching backwards and forwards along that section. It was 8 or so miles of steps up, then steps down, then steps up etc. Finally, we reached the Sycamore Gap where we knew the turn off was fairly soon afterwards and we begin to head north again. The next section is mainly the forest tracks of Wark Forest, though as a result of Storm Arwen a few years back many sections have had to be cleared. The midges were however beginning to come out, so I got to try out my bottle of “Smidge” It seemed to work, and I had no further issues. Light was by now beginning to fade. Our next rest and the last time I get to access my drop bag would be at Bellingham. Once through the forests night had fallen and we soon reached the next pit stop at Horneystead Barn. A farm where there is a 24hr welcome, water, cake, tea and coffee. Even a shower if you wanted it. We had a dehydrated meal which we had brought with us. Whilst waiting for this to soften I was told off for faffing with my phone, ok probably right, but was enjoying the sit down and cuppa as well. Anyway soon back on our way once more. As we left, we had to do a slight swerve round a field where there was a very lively horse, maybe our head torches disturbed it or it was disturbed by the person who was in front of us, who knows? One hill to go before Bellingham. Shitlington Crags. Once over there dawn was very much breaking and another fantastic dawn chorus. Think it was here, it was all curlews! Down from the moors to Brown Rigg Lodges and the Bellingham checkpoint arriving at 03:45. Earlier today I had developed a swollen ankle it wasn’t really bothering me, just a bit swollen, so it was decided I would visit the medic and have it checked over. Nothing was obviously wrong and with some taping for extra support I was deemed ok to proceed. With the kit faffing, the visit to the medic and a shower not to mention a nap we used the full 6-hour time allowed. In fact I had to go and sit outside the checkpoint for 10 mins to finish prepping my feet for the day. So, we left a little later at 9:45

Onwards through Bellingham town and we passed another buffet car at the old railway station for a brew and yes, more cake. The next section consists of fields, forests, and we get tantalisingly close to the Scottish border at times, indeed even dipping a toe or two across it. We cross Whitley Pike then over Padon Hill. I remember a very spiky heathery section which kept scratching my legs and causing them bleed slightly and was very glad when I had passed that bit. After a fairly steep climb we finally, we reach the forests on the approach to Blakehopeburnhaugh, (call it Byrness) This is the last half checkpoint we just have a half hour allowed for a water top up, a dehydrated meal and of course a brew in the company of a medic and John Bamber. Whilst here, I had my foot looked at again by Dr Tim. Apparently my feet were generally in not too bad condition. He taped up a couple of areas as a precaution and I was sent on my way. We had a full complement of water as the Cheviots were very dry with none available once up there. We were at Byrness at 16:40

Through the Byrness village and up the very steep climb and scramble that is Byrness Hill. We took our time at this point as it was very warm by now and didn’t want to use up any more water than absolutely needed. Once up, it was a nice evening for crossing the grassy tops of the Cheviots. Apparently my tracker was playing up a bit and the SST people rang me as it had not updated for a while. Nice to know they are keeping an eye on you. Quick chat and we were all happy everything was ok. My tracker seemed then to spark back into life so all good. Easy paths at first, but as night begins to fall and we approached the remains of the Roman fort, things began to get a little trickier. There is a point near Black Halls where paths converge and diverge. Last time we were here, when we did the recce, we ended up on the wrong one and end up going towards Wedder Hill. I suppose at certain times of the year the area will consist of boggy trods. Clearly people find the best way round so they tend disappear in all directions. This time though we got the correct trod…. Yippee! Well eventually! Continuing on a good trod once again they split. It was mainly dark by now and behind us there were a couple of head torches catching us up. This proved to be the second, third and fourth runners from the full Spine race passing us. Following a brief chat, they continued on ahead and disappeared off in varying directions. Just like us they were struggling to find the correct one. Anyway, using technology and leaping over tussocks we made it to a good path and lo’ an’ behold, dropped down round a corner and there was Hut 1. It’s now 00:27 Thursday – I hope! Yearning Saddle or Lamb Hill mountain refuge hut, this is manned by SST members but sadly due to lack of water no tea was offered this time. However, we did manage a couple of hours of sort of rest with a couple of the full Spine folk. So at 02:25 we set off again along the border ridge.

We have till 6pm to get to the finish line today. Its now about 11 miles to Hut 2 and then 7 miles to the finish. The Cheviots have quite a few bumpy hills along the ridge. The next one being Lamb Hill, then Beefstand, Mozie Law, Windy Gyle, where we saw a small group of the native Cheviot Goats. This time not hallucinting, we also saw a strange moving light over the moors. We told ourslves it must be something to do with the military as there are ranges over in that direction, either that or we would be abducted by aliens! Once more sunrise is on its way, however as it was quite cold overnight, so much so that I had put on quite a few extra layers. The mist had come down too and visibility was much reduced. The path however is really very easy to follow, as we just follow the fence on the left which forms the border between Scotland and England. It does though seem to go on and on for miles and miles. Slowly and steadily increasing in altitude. As we turn the corner at the end of the fence, the path to The Cheviot Hill branches off to the right. Then there is a bit of a climb up Auchope Cairn. By now the mist was lifting, the sun was coming out, looks like we were gong to have a nice sunny day. Once at the top of the cairn a quick glance back revealed where we had been. Such a stunning view of the Border Ridge. Turning back again, there below us is the diminutive view of Hut 2, some 1000ft or so below us. So, it’s a steep descent at times down to the last monitoring point. The best route now was marked with red flags as there is a drop called Hen Hole if you venture too far to the right.

We arrived at hut 2 (Auchope Mountain Refuge Hut) at 08:08. Here we were offered a cuppa and had a pleasant chat with the SST crew. No rush now as its only 6.8 miles to go. Apart from the last hill, The Schill its mainly downhill. Once on the top of the Schill we detoured to read a plaque in memory of a friend’s dad on the stile leading to the summit then it was down. In fact, it’s mainly down now all the way to finally hitting the tarmac at Burnhead. Tarmac you say, yes, it’s a shock to the system after so many miles of trods, flags and boggy ground, still we are very nearly there. However lo and behold there is a bump called the Loanings, just before the final bit into KY. By now the weather was very hot so I can safely say I’m glad we are just about done, as today would be quite brutal in that heat. Final downhill and as we hit the green started to jog. (Avoiding the drop for a road in the middle which would have been embarrassing if we fell over). The Spine Race and the Challenger North have one of the most iconic finishes on any race. As we ran under the Montane arches there is lots of applause from the people there, the team and helpers. (Which got louder as we started to run) Out from the Montane arches and across the pub car park to the wall and we are done. Yes, I remembered to stop my watch! We were both presented with our medals. (From Helen and Dave) then were interviewed by Kevin McCann.

Into the corner door and left then into the function room with offers of tea, food, the certificate and my finishers T shirt. True to form after a sprinkling of well-dones from folk I had one thing in mind. It was of course now afternoon and the sun had risen above the yard arm. Yes, we were after all at Border Hotel and so it was a pint of Tyneside Blond. Had to be done, I felt I had earned that one. Andy had kept going and finshed a few hours ahead of us but Dean and Stefanie had yet to finish, in fact there were 5 more people to finsh after us.

I was tired and in need of a shower, now I had stopped, relaxed and begun to realise we had actually done it. I now started to stiffen up a little, as if my body had decided, right you have finished you don’t need me to work anymore. Feet suddenly felt more sore, in which case best have another pint then! After all, I only had to retrace my steps back to the top of the green where the cottage was I that was staying in for a few nights is situated. Chris was staying in the campsite in Town Yetholm so not far away either. Helen had already been there for a day so was nicely settled in. Time for a shower then I laid down on the bed, next thing I knew it was teatime. Flat out. I had planned to cheer the last runners in but seemingly I was still fast asleep as they passed and missed them. So, get up and have something to eat and walk back to the pub? Nope fall asleep again. So now clearly is time to recover.

The next day felt much better, feet still sore but I am walking ok albeit slowly. Met Chris and Dave for lunch at the pub before they headed off to the Lakes. Spent the next few days recovering and watching and cheering in the Full Spine runners, finally leaving for home on Sunday morning. We were both feeling quite chuffed we made it and I have to say that Chris and I gave ourselves a pat on the back for completing it.

That completes the whole of the Pennine Way from Edale to Kirk Yetholm albeit in two parts. Time for this half was approximately 90 hours. For the South it was 55 hours so total time for the full 268 miles was 145 hours. For the record neither Chris nor I have any plans to do the full route in one go!

So that’s it, personally I blame Jane for the idea in the first place!

[Originally published at https://express.adobe.com/page/ycRjb4x3rCTcg/]